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Paris SS27: Five Collections That We Enjoyed The Most

Paris Fashion Week SS27 ran from September 28 to October 6, bringing the Spring/Summer 2027 season to a close. By the time Paris started, we had already seen enough comebacks and forced “new directions” to last us a while. The collections that stood out weren’t necessarily the biggest or most commercial. They were the ones with something specific to say. Matières Fécales made representation inseparable from the clothes. Rick Owens pushed his world even further. Vivienne Westwood kept its anarchic attitude intact. Jean Paul Gaultier turned the body into a design problem. And Comme des Garçons went straight back into the kind of strange territory only Rei Kawakubo can really occupy. Here are five collections we actually cared about. Matières Fécales Matières Fécales took over Place de la République with The Ninety Nine Percent , following last season’s The 1% . The concept was pretty direct. If the previous collection looked at the ultra-wealthy elite that luxury fashion often caters to,...
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Milan SS27: A Glimpse at What We Loved Most

Milan Fashion Week SS27 ran from September 22 to 28. There was no huge overarching trend taking over the week, but there were plenty of collections worth paying attention to. Some houses continued what they've already been doing, while others started to settle into new directions. For us, these five stood out. Prada Prada basically made the skirt the main character this season. Almost every look had one, but the interesting part was how differently Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons treated it. There were short skirts, long skirts, pleated skirts, sheer ones, leather ones, knit ones and more technical versions. Some were very simple, while others had much more going on. The rest of the clothes were kept relatively straightforward. Fitted tops, oversized jackets, coats and knitwear gave the skirts different proportions depending on the look. It sounds like a very basic idea, but that's what made it work. Prada took something completely normal and found enough variations in it to carry...
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London SS27: Five Houses That Sparked The Conversation

London Fashion Week SS27 ran from September 17 to 21. Alexander McQueen returned to the London schedule for the first time in 25 years, Christopher Kane presented his first collection for Mulberry, and several established houses used the week to push their signatures in slightly different directions. There wasn't one trend defining the season. Instead, the collections that stood out were the ones with a clear identity and enough detail to keep things interesting. These were five houses that sparked the conversation. Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen returned to London for the first time since 2001, when the house moved its runway to Paris. Seán McGirr staged the show at Lincoln's Inn Chapel, giving the collection a setting that suited the darker side of the house. The clothes played with contrast. Sharp tailoring came with exaggerated shoulders and strong proportions, while lacquered satin, smoked tulle, metal and floral lace softened some of the harder pieces. Dres...
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New York SS27: Five Worth Knowing About

New York Fashion Week SS27 ran from September 10 to 15. The CFDA's fur-free policy came into full effect this season, mandatory for every brand on the official schedule. Ten designers made their NYFW debut. More importantly, the week felt like New York again — varied, energetic, and willing to let designers do their own thing. These were five collections that stood out. Carolina Herrera Wes Gordon celebrated the house's 45th anniversary at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center, transforming the space with nearly 30,000 yellow tulips — a nod to Taxi Cab Yellow, one of the collection's defining colours and a reference to the packaging of Carolina Herrera's first fragrance from 1988. The premise was straightforward: everything that makes Carolina Herrera feel like Carolina Herrera — white shirts, sequins, tailoring, embroidery, evening gowns — brought into 2026 rather than pulled from the archive. Ruffled evening dresses, structured daywear, sharp colour combinat...
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Who Gets To Have Taste?

There is a strange thing we do with fashion: we talk about taste as though it were an individual instinct. You either have it or you don't. Someone knows how to dress. Another one doesn't. One person looks effortlessly chic and sophisticated; another looks desperate and tacky. These judgments are usually delivered as though they are objective observations rather than opinions shaped by decades of social conditioning. But who decided what good taste looks like in the first place? And more importantly: w ho gets to decide? Taste Was Never Neutral Taste has always been connected to class. What we describe as individual preference is often influenced by the social environments we grow up in. The clothes we wear, even the things we consider beautiful, can function as signals of where we belong. And fashion is particularly good at turning these signals into hierarchies. A logo can be vulgar. A discreet fabric can be sophisticated. A perfectly pressed shirt can suggest discipline. A d...
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The Creative Director Is Not the Problem

Only a few days ago, Olivier Rousteing was confirmed as the new creative director of Rabanne, with his debut collection scheduled for March 2027. Julien Dossena had stepped down from the house just weeks earlier, while Antonin Tron had already begun a new chapter at Balmain. Two major French houses reshuffled almost back-to-back, barely leaving enough time for one announcement to settle before the next arrived. This is what fashion's mercato looks like today. Not a crisis in the dramatic sense, but a permanent state of motion. Every few weeks, another house announces a departure, another appointment, and another new chapter. The industry borrowed the word from football's transfer market, and the comparison has become surprisingly accurate. The Transfer Window Over the past two years, nearly every major maison has changed creative leadership. Pierpaolo Piccioli left Valentino after twenty-five years. Jonathan Anderson left Loewe after eleven years. Matthieu Blazy moved fr...
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Paris Men's SS27: A Week Of Strong Identities

Paris Men's SS27 ran from June 24 to 29, closing out another month of menswear with one of the busiest calendars of the season. There wasn't one dominant trend or silhouette defining the week. Instead, the strongest collections were the ones that stayed committed to their own point of view. From Rick Owens' dystopian realm to Saint Laurent's sharp couture and a wave of independent designers pushing menswear in different directions, these were the collections that caught our attention. Rick Owens Presented during one of Paris' hottest weeks on record, the collection responded directly to the climate through inflatable garments developed with Adidas that released a cooling mist as models walked the runway. Beyond the technical innovation, Owens stayed true to the language he has spent decades refining. Monumental shoulders, towering boots, elongated silhouettes, sculptural outerwear, and dramatic proportions transformed the body into architecture. Even when introd...
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